Do you realize how insignificant you are? You are just one person. Living in one country. On one planet. In one Solar System. In one galaxy – in a universe of billions of them. Around for only a short while. Whether you live to be 50 or even 100 years old, when you take everything into consideration, the time you spend being is so insignificant.
Staring at rock art estimated to date to the Neolithic period somewhere between 9,000 and 3,000 B.C.; walking around the massive ruins of an ancient kingdom that existed from the 1st to the 10th century; standing inside of churches dating back to the 4th century, my 26 years in time all of a sudden seemed meaningless. I often wonder, what is our purpose? We are remembered for what we leave behind. But, even then, only for a short while. And, only by certain individuals or groups of people.
Mek’ele to Hawzen
After sleeping outside on a tarp in the rain atop Erta Ale, and then on a rope bed at a military camp in the hottest inhabited place on Earth the following night [see post: Hiking in the Hottest Inhabited Place on Earth], it was nice to finally shower and sleep in what I would consider an actual bed.
It was “Day 5” of Untamed Borders’ Horn of Africa – Ethiopia and Somaliland itinerary. We left Mek’ele in the late morning and headed into the Tigrayan Mountains. Getting around this region meant spending a lot of time confined to a van jam-packed with nine others. Most of the sightseeing was done through the cracked open window of the fast-moving vehicle. Given the distance to Axum, we would break up the drive and spend the night in Hawzen – which is located a little less than halfway to Axum from Mek’ele.
The Tigray Region of Ethiopia is famous for its rock-hewn churches – with the most remarkable rock churches cut into the mountains near Hawzen. First stop: Abreha we Atsbeha.
Located in a rural community west of the town of Wukro, Abreha we Atsbeha is one of the oldest and best-known rock-hewn churches in Tigray.
The church is old. While in Ethiopia, I quickly learned that locals claim these sites are much older than archaeologists say. So, I am going to leave out any specific dates. Broadly stated, these rock-hewn churches we visited are very old – centuries old.
Before getting on the road again, we walked over to a market across from the entrance of the church.
Second stop: Mikael Imba. Reaching this rock-hewn church required a 20-minute walk and a short climb up a ladder. Aside from age, spectacular location is another similarity the rock-hewn churches of Tigray share.
Third stop: Wukro Chirkos.
Located on the edge of the town of Wukro, this Orthodox Tewahedo monolithic church was the only rock-hewn church known to the outside world until the early 20th century.
Our timing was perfect – it was Holy Week in Ethiopia and today was Holy Saturday. Inside, the congregation was preparing for the Easter Vigil.
Later that night, we arrived at the Gheralta Lodge in Hawzen. Before I could make myself comfortable, the receptionist invited me to the Easter Vigil at a church nearby. What an incredible experience.
Hawzen to Axum
“Day 6” was a rather quiet day. We left Hawzen early that morning and headed towards Axum.
Leaving the town, I noticed that the streets were filled with animal remains.
Today was Orthodox Easter Sunday; this meant that the fasting period was over and worshipers could resume eating meat again.
En route, we stopped at the Debre Damo Monastery. Located northwest of the city of Adigrat, this monastery dates back to early Aksumite times and is said to possess Ethiopia’s oldest existing church.
Unfortunately, women are not allowed. Only men could visit the monastery – if they are not afraid of heights and are strong enough to climb a rope, since the monastery is only accessible by a 15 meter (or about 49 feet) rope climb up a sheer cliff.
After lunch, we resumed the drive to Axum.
On the way, we visited another ancient church located in a remote village.
I was not too impressed by this site and decided to wander around the village instead.
Before I could make it out past the church grounds, the local children ran to me asking for soap and pens. My heart broke. They did not ask for money or for candy, but instead asked for soap and pens.
I did not have either to give. So, I walked over to the only store in the village and bought all of the pens, cookies, and lollipops in stock.
Within minutes, I was surrounded by children, distributing the items to anyone within reach.
Axum
“Day 7” was reserved for a full day in the Axum (also spelled Aksum) – the original capital of the Kingdom of Aksum and home to the Queen of Sheba. Being one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Africa, Axum’s history and significance dates far back in time. UNESCO designated the ancient city’s archaeological areas as a World Heritage Site. The areas are still being explored and excavated.
We began the day by visiting the Axum Stelae Fields. This is where 120 giant granite pillars are found, dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries. Historians believe these pillars were likely funeral monuments for Axum’s ancient rulers, but the details are not known for certain.
Crossing the street, we entered the grounds of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion.
This Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo church claims to contain the Ark of the Covenant. Although Christians in Ethiopia have long claimed to have the Ark of the Covenant, nobody is permitted to visit inside of the church.
Following lunch, we visited Queen of Sheba’s Palace and Baths before visiting the tombs of Kings Kaleb and Gabra Masqal in the surrounding area.
We spent the rest of the day exploring this ancient city on our own before heading back to the Yared Zema International Hotel for a good night’s rest and beginning the journey to Harar the following morning [see post: Mouth-Feeding Hyenas in Harar].
