Not too long ago, getting into Syria as an American seemed impossible. U.S. passport holders need a visa to enter Syria. However, diplomatic relations between the United States of America and Syria have been non-existent in recent years—making it difficult for U.S. passport holders to visit. I first began the process back in October 2018 [see post: Strategic Weekend in Lebanon]. After four failed attempts, I was ready to throw in the towel. Little did I know, things were about to change. Over the following months, Syria finally made attempts to reopen the country to visitors, including Americans.
As word started to spread that groups of fellow American travelers were successfully getting into Syria, I knew I could not wait and let the opportunity pass. In October 2019, I reached out to the fixer that others were using to begin the process again. I was advised that groups of eight or more people had better luck of getting approved. Given the novelty of traveling to Syria, I was able to put together a group almost instantly. After setting the date, I arranged a customized four-day program for January 2020.
We spent the next few months waiting for news, expecting the worst. As time passed, we started to lose hope. By January, we were ready to give up. To our surprise, just days before our departure date, we were informed that our security clearances were approved. We could not believe it. Before we could breathe a sigh of relief, our excitement was quickly replaced with worry. That same week, the week of our trip, Iran threatened retaliation for the killing of General Soleimani and protests reignited in Lebanon closing down Beirut. Who would have thought that getting to Beirut would be our greatest concern? The irony.
The plan was to meet the day before our tour. We were all arriving in Beirut at different times on Friday, January 17, 2020. After a quick layover in Paris, I arrived at Beirut-Rafic Hariri International Airport late that evening. This was my fourth time in Beirut just this past year. I knew the drill. I quickly made it through the airport and immediately headed to the Golden Tulip MidTown Hotel and Suites (my go-to hotel in Beirut) to meet most of the group for dinner.
[Day 1] Beirut – Lebanon-Syria Border – Bosra – Damascus
Begin tour. Depart Beirut for Syria. Following border formalities, continue on to Bosra—once the capital of the Roman province of Arabia. Explore the ancient city and see its archaeological remains. Leave Bosra for Damascus—the capital of Syria and the country’s largest city. Head out for dinner and drinks in Old Damascus. Overnight at Dar Al Yasmin Hotel.
[Day 2] Damascus – Al-Mishtaya
After breakfast, go for a city tour of Damascus. Visit the city’s main attractions. After lunch, leave Damascus for Al-Mishtaya—a village in northwestern Syria. Dinner and drinks at the hotel. Overnight at Al Wadi Hotel.
[Day 3] Al-Mishtaya – Palmyra – “Checkpoint #3” – Homs – Al-Mishtaya
After breakfast, drive to Palmyra—ancient Semitic city containing archaeological finds dating back to the Neolithic period. Explore what is left of the city that ISIS captured and occupied twice. Leave Palmyra for lunch in Homs—a city in western Syria. En route, stop at “Checkpoint #3”. After lunch, return to Al-Mishtaya. Dinner and drinks at the hotel. Overnight at Al Wadi Hotel.
[Day 4] Al-Mishtaya – Krak des Chevaliers – Homs – Maaloula – Syria-Lebanon Border – Beirut
After breakfast, leave Al-Mishtaya for Krak des Chevaliers—a Crusader castle in Syria. Explore one of the most important preserved medieval castles in the world. Continue on to Homs. After lunch, leave Homs for Maaloula—one of the last places where Aramaic is still spoken. Explore the ancient village. Leave Maaloula for Lebanon. Following border formalities, continue on to Beirut. End tour.
