A Saturday in Bahrain

Royal Camel Farm, Bahrain
Royal Camel Farm, Bahrain

Sitting at the gate, staring blankly at the Departures monitor, I heard my name called. Perplexed, I took my backpack and walked up to the counter. I was told that my flight was ready for boarding. Okay? Naturally, I stepped aside to let the premium passengers board first. Nobody was walking up to the gate. The KLM Royal Dutch Airlines representative motioned for me to come forth. I handed over my passport and boarding pass and proceeded to board an empty bus. To my surprise, I was the only one on the bus. A few minutes later, two men stepped into the bus. The door closed and the bus pulled away from the terminal. Were we the only three people about to board this giant Airbus? KLM’s flight from Amsterdam to Manama makes a quick stop in Kuwait to pick up passengers. Apparently, Kuwait is not a popular travel destination. So, we were the only three people joining that flight segment to Bahrain.

I had two full days in the Middle East. I spent the previous day wandering around Kuwait City looking for something to do [see post: A Friday in Kuwait]. I had a gut feeling that this would happen. Luckily, I thought ahead and arranged for a quick day trip to Bahrain.

I arrived at Bahrain International Airport in Manama a few minutes past midnight on Saturday, November 11, 2017. I quickly searched the airport for a place to nap for the next few hours. I found a row of seats in the back of the Arrivals lounge, inflated my travel pillow, wrapped my backpack strap around my wrist, and attempted to sleep for the next seven hours.

Arrivals Lounge
Arrivals Lounge

At 8:30 in the morning, I was picked up for my full-day tour of Bahrain. Although there were not many tour options for Bahrain, one option was more than Kuwait had to offer.

En Route to Manama
En Route to Manama

The full-day tour was organized into two sections – a morning and an afternoon tour with the following stops:

Bab Al Bahrain
The “Gateway of Bahrain”, a cultural landmark at the entrance to the Manama Souq. When my driver asked if I wanted to step out of the van to snap a photo, I was not quite sure what I was taking a picture of. Without any narrative or knowledge of Manama’s history, the historic building looks like, well, a building.

Bab Al Bahrain
Bab Al Bahrain

A’Ali Burial Mounds
Mounds of soil can be seen throughout the country. In between buildings. Along the roads. Everywhere. These piles of sand, rock and concrete are actually burial mounds. From far, some of these mounds look like rubbish. However, a closer view reveals the “Warning” signs posted in and around these ancient sites noting that these mounds are protected by a law concerning the protection of antiquities.

Burial Mound Between Buildings
Burial Mound Between Buildings
Closer View of the Burial Mound
Closer View of the Burial Mound
Burial Mounds Along a Road
Burial Mounds Along a Road
View of the Burial Mounds
View of the Burial Mounds

Oil Fields
Yes, we literally drove through oil fields and stopped near a drilling rig. The fields were unguarded. Completely accessible from the main road. On another note, did you know that in Bahrain one liter of water is more expensive than one liter of oil?

Stop at an Oil Field
Stop at an Oil Field
Drilling Rig
Drilling Rig

Camel Farm
Somewhere along the way, we pulled off the main road and into a gated plot of land. I wish we had continued down the road. This is something that I never wished to see – camels crying. From a distance, it looked like there were a bunch of camels sitting and standing around. As the bus pulled up closer, I noticed ropes hanging off these adorable animals. I got off the bus and walked up to the camels to learn that each was tied into place. Not only were the camels tied into place, but their feet were tied together so that they could not walk, only sit and stand. I stood there not knowing how to feel. I felt so bad for these animals. Before I could react, a man in local attire approached one of the camels sitting down. The closer he got to the camel, the louder the camel screamed. You could hear the fear in the camel’s cries. The man proceeded to mount the camel. At this point, the camel was screaming uncontrollably. The man started to hit the camel every time it screamed. My heart sank. I wanted to hit this man the way that he struck the camel. The guide questioned the man and his actions. The man replied, “the camel needs to learn”. Speechless, we immediately left the premises. We did not want to condone such behavior. Unfortunately, this type of animal abuse happens all over the world.

Royal Camel Farm
Royal Camel Farm
Camel Tied Into Place
Camel Tied Into Place
Camels Tied Down
Camels Tied Down

Al Areen Wildlife Park
I never expected a “drive-thru safari” to be on any itinerary in Bahrain. Al Areen Wildlife Park is one of five protected areas in the country and it is the only designated protected area on land. This nature reserve and zoo offers the sight of different animals, birds, and desert plants in their “own natural environment”. I put the later in quotation because I believe (to the best of my knowledge) that baboons are not indigenous to Bahrain. Again, I felt so bad for these animals.

Al Areen Wildlife Park
Al Areen Wildlife Park
Driving Through the Park
Driving Through the Park
Animal Enclosures
Animal Enclosures

Bahrain International Circuit
I do not know much about racing. Or even the significance or difference between the Grand Prix and whatever else there is. But, apparently, the Bahrain International Circuit attracts thousands of spectators a year. The venue opened in 2004 after initiation by the Crown Prince himself. Since no event was taking place, we had the opportunity to enter the viewing platform that the royal family frequents.

Bahrain International Circuit
Bahrain International Circuit
Wall of Fame
Wall of Fame
View of the Race Track
View of the Race Track

Gravity Indoor Skydiving
I am still not sure why this was a stop on the tour’s itinerary. We simply waited around to watch random people participate in the activity. We did not actually participate ourselves, we just watched others. What was the purpose of this? I am not sure.

Indoor Skydiving
Indoor Skydiving

Traditional Lunch
Pretty self-explanatory: after the morning tour concluded, we stopped for a traditional Bahraini lunch at Haji’s Café – one of the oldest traditional restaurants in the city.

Traditional Bahraini Lunch
Traditional Bahraini Lunch

World Trade Center
I do not remember this being a stop. Maybe we drove past the World Trade Center, but I do not recall stopping or seeing the World Trade Center.

Driving Around Manama
Driving Around Manama

Al Fateh Grand Mosque
Of course there is always a stop at a mosque on most guided tours in the Middle East. The Al Fateh Mosque is one of the largest mosques in the world, but it is no Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Every mosque has its charm, but, in my opinion, this one was missing that “wow factor”.

Al Fateh Mosque
Al Fateh Mosque
Selfie
Selfie
Inside of the Al Fateh Mosque
Inside of the Al Fateh Mosque

Bahrain National Museum
I am not a museum person. I avoid them. I request to remove them from tour itineraries (when possible). Since this was a guided group tour, I had no option but to join. My face must have reflected my excitement, because within minutes the tour guide asked me if I wanted to wait outside of the building. Anxious to leave, I decided to engage in the visit and soak up the nation’s heritage and history displayed in the largest and one of the oldest public museums in Bahrain.

Bahrain National Museum
Bahrain National Museum

Muharraq Souq
An excellent display of a traditional Arabic marketplace. Set on the Pearl Trail, the Muharraq Souq offers everything from produce and spices to famed sweet shops.

Narrow Streets of Muharraq
Narrow Streets of Muharraq
Wandering Around Muharraq
Wandering Around Muharraq

Old Houses of Muharraq
Also pretty self-explanatory: we entered a handful of the old houses of Muharraq.

Old House in Muharraq
Old House in Muharraq

Bahrain Bay
“Bahrain – where tradition meets contemporary”. I read that somewhere. And, the results really are evident throughout the country. The previous stop showcased a traditional souq, while Bahrain Bay featured contemporary high-rises placed throughout the modernized capital.

Manama Skyline
Manama Skyline

This stop also marked the end of my weekend in the Middle East. I switched vans and headed back to the airport to catch my flight back to Chicago via Kuwait City and Amman.