Israel was not next on my radar. I wanted to eventually go, but there was nothing drawing me in to visit the country next – except for the unusually cheap airfare from Chicago.
After spending a day exploring Vaduz, Liechtenstein [see post: 12 Hour Stopover: Liechtenstein from Zurich], I took the last flight out of Zurich, Switzerland to Tel Aviv, Israel. I arrived at Ben Gurion Airport at about half past 3:00 in the morning on Saturday, April 29, 2017. I booked three nights at the Abraham Hostel Tel Aviv. Arriving on Shabbat (a Jewish holiday that is observed on Friday afternoon until Saturday evening), meant that I had to take a taxi since public transportation does not operate during this time.
Located in the heart of the city, the Abraham Hostel offers the total package – a poster child for hosteling. Walking up to the hostel at 4:00 in the morning, I never expected groups of people to be sitting outside, smoking, drinking, and engaging in conversations. Inside, spread across the lobby area, others sat and worked at the tables situated along the walls. Upstairs, a huge common area filled with communal dining tables and hammocks, all surrounding the bar. On the rooftop, people laying out, staring at the stars, talking about everything and nothing. The backpacker feel radiated throughout the property, creating a fun-loving energy.
The hostel definitely lived up to its high ratings. Aside from offering free breakfast and a self-catering kitchen, the hostel organizes free walking tours of Jaffa every day, provides advice and arranges tours, car and bike rental, and hosts happy hour and events almost every night.
Day 1
There is so much to do and see in Israel. Since I only had two full days, I needed to be extremely selective with the activities and places that made it onto my itinerary. Prior to arriving in Israel, I booked the “Nazareth, Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee Day Trip from Tel Aviv” through Viator. After about an hour of sleep, I left for the full-day tour.
Religion is a hot topic. There are countries at war because of it. The Holy Land, which includes modern-day Israel and the Palestinian territories, is significant to Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike. So, it is important to note that the history and stories behind the holy sites change between religions. Raised Catholic, I wanted to visit the Holy Land from a Catholic Christian perspective. So, please keep that in mind when reading this post – whether or not you believe in the same stories or significance of the places that I visited.
I wish I had paid more attention during those Saturday mornings spent in CCD (Confraternity of Christine Doctrine) classes. My knowledge of the stories behind the Catholic religion is pathetically lacking. Fortunately, on the way to Nazareth in the Galilee region, we were told tales of the city that is known as the childhood home of Jesus.
On arrival, we visited some of Nazareth’s key religious sites – the Church of the Annunciation (which stands over the cave that tradition holds to be the home of the Virgin Mary) and the Church of St. Joseph (believed to stand on the site of Joseph’s carpentry workshop).
Following, we continued through the village of Kafr Kanna (identified as the site of Cana where Jesus performed the miracle of wine) and arrived at the Sea of Galilee (Israel’s biggest freshwater lake and the setting of many biblical tales).
We had time to explore Capernaum on the shores of the sea.
After passing through the city of Tiberias, we arrived at our last stop in Yardenit (a sacred baptism site on the Jordan River). Here, visitors have the ability to take part in a Christian baptism ceremony. I opted out – it looked too “touristy” for my likes.
Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv left me speechless. A mix between Rio de Janeiro and Barcelona with a splash of Miami – Sandy beaches. World-class nightlife. International cuisine. Diverse culture. UNESCO recognized architecture. All of which I did not expect. Blown away by my ignorance, I was pleasantly surprised.
Tel Aviv definitely made my “Top 10 Cities” list. Highly recommend visiting this unique city.
Day 2
Jerusalem, the claimed capital of both Israel and Palestine, is one of the oldest and holiest cities in the world – a place of pilgrimage and worship for countless people throughout the centuries. It is actually quite fascinating that there is a place in this world that is holy to Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike. I had to see it.
Prior to arriving in Israel, I booked the “Day Tour to Jerusalem and Bethlehem from Tel Aviv” through Viator for my second full day in Israel. After boarding the jam-packed tour bus that morning, we headed straight for Jerusalem.
On arrival, we visited the Mount of Olives to admire the beautiful views over Old Jerusalem. What a city. Visually, it reminded me of Amman. So much to look at jammed into one place. Yet, everything looked like it belonged there. Maybe because municipal laws require that all buildings be faced with local Jerusalem stone? Still, the shiny, gold dome of the Dome of the Rock immediately caught my attention.
Driving into the city, I can officially say that I have never seen so many tourists in one place at one time. We pushed our way through the Old City walls into the colorful Armenian Quarter. Countries from all corners of the world have some sort of representation in Jerusalem. Pretty cool.
Walking through the winding lanes, we arrived at the famous Western Wall.
Also known as the Wailing Wall (which refers to the practice of Jews weeping at the site over the destruction of the Temples), this is the holiest place where Jews are permitted to pray, though it is not the holiest site in the Jewish faith. We were given free time to walk the grounds and approach the wall. Jewish people believe that a divine presence rests within the Western Wall. And so, placing hand-written notes containing prayers to God into the cracks of the Western Wall in hopes that they will be answered became a practice.
Nearby, the Via Dolorosa (a street in the Christian Quarter believed to be the path that Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion) is lined with the Stations of the Cross.
At the end, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre – one of the first four churches ever built that contains the two holiest sites in Christianity: the site where Jesus was crucified and Jesus’s empty tomb where he is said to have been buried and resurrected.
Given the close proximity, it would have been a shame not to have entered the State of Palestine [see post: Over the Wall: Palestine].
I spent the rest of the day exploring Bethlehem before heading back to Tel Aviv for the night.
Ben Gurion Airport
Pre-departure procedures at Ben Gurion Airport might as well be included in your itinerary as “things to do”. When I read that I should arrive at the airport at least three to four hours before my scheduled departure time, I did not take the suggestion seriously. Wow. I was wrong. Whether you are checking in luggage or just traveling with a carry-on, give yourself ample time for the ticketing process, passing through security, and for clearing customs and immigration.
Passing through Ben Gurion Airport, I felt like a hostage being interrogated for the most horrendous crime. I joke, but, security procedures at this airport are on a level that I have never experienced. While in line to have my boarding pass printed, I was questioned about every single stamp in my passport.
Officer: Why did you visit the United Arab Emirates?
Me: For tourism.
Officer: Do you have family in Israel?
Me: No.
Officer: Why did you visit the United Arab Emirates?
Me: For tourism.
Officer: Why did you visit Tunisia?
Me: For tourism.
Officer: What did you do while in Israel?
Me: Went sightseeing.
Officer: Why did you visit the United Arab Emirates?
Me: For tourism.
After being questioned (about the same questions over and over) for almost half an hour, the questioning officer grabbed another officer to tag team me with the same questions for several more minutes. My blood was boiling. When I was finally let go, I was moved to a separate line in security for people who only have carry-ons. Instead of the usual “put your stuff on the belt and walk through the metal detector” routine, I was told to sit until I was called. The security officer took everything out of my backpack. Everything. All of my belongings, including my socks, were individually placed on the conveyor belt. I spent a good three hours passing through ticketing, security, customs and immigration.
