The purpose of my trip to Ukraine was to visit Chernobyl. I wanted 2017 to be the year of unusual destinations. I kicked off the New Year in North Korea [see post: Off the Beaten Path: North Korea], and after returning, wanted to continue the theme. Logistically, visiting Somaliland in a four-day weekend was not going to happen. Chernobyl quickly peaked my interest, and the cheap airfare from Chicago to Kiev through Austrian Airlines secured the decision.
Chernobyl Disaster Recap
Located in Northern Ukraine near the border with Belarus (in what was then all part of the Soviet Union), Chernobyl was the site of the world’s worst nuclear disaster. A quick Google search will return millions of links to information, pictures, and videos about the Chernobyl accident and aftermath. Of course, there are always two sides to every story. My knowledge is based on research I conducted before arriving in Ukraine, and from what I learned during the tour.
The day that made history: April 26, 1986. In the early hours of that Saturday, at reactor number four, an explosion and fire released massive quantities of radioactive contamination into the atmosphere. Within days, radioactive particles spread over much of Europe. Although only two people died immediately as a result of the explosion, and a handful more in the days that followed, the longer-term impact of radiation remains unknown. The exact fatality numbers are also unknown and range into the tens of thousands. Cancer remains a threat, and is expected to affect thousands more over the years to come. It is estimated that Chernobyl will remain contaminated for at least another 20,000 years.
People from Chernobyl and the surrounding villages that were the most severely contaminated were evacuated and resettled. The government officially designated the area around the site of the disaster as the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant Zone of Alienation, or more commonly known as the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone. Under military control, the Exclusion Zone is one of the most radioactively contaminated areas in the world. The Exclusion Zone is broken down into the 30-kilometer Exclusion Zone and the 10-kilometer Exclusion Zone. While the zones remain empty, an estimated 142 people have returned and resettled inside the 30-kilometer Exclusion Zone. Additionally, thousands of people currently work inside the 30-kilometer Exclusion Zone. Pripyat, which now lies inside the 10-kilometer Exclusion Zone, was initially built to house the employees of the nuclear power plant. Currently, the 10-kilometer Exclusion Zone is not inhabited. The abandoned ghost town is now the main tourist attraction.
The Exclusion Zone
Entry into the Exclusion Zone requires a government permit. Permits can be obtained through any tour operator that offers the trip. Surprisingly, it was not difficult to find a tour that visits the Exclusion Zone. Apparently, visiting the area is a rather popular tourist attraction from Kiev. For $70 USD ($79 for the day tour, plus $10 for the compulsory medical insurance, less a $19 student discount), I booked a full-day group tour organized by Solo East Travel. Yes, four years after graduating college, I am guilty of still using my college identification card for student discounts.
Chernobyl is located about two hours north from Kiev by road. [see post: Sightseeing Kiev]. Early that morning, I made my way to the city center, and boarded the tour bus bound for Chernobyl. Last minute, I decided to rent a Geiger counter (a device used to detect radioactive emissions) for $10 USD. Initially, I did not want to spend the extra money; I assumed that everyone else in my group would have rented a device. But, I quickly noticed that nobody on the bus was holding a Geiger counter.
Playing with the device, my attention was quickly captivated by the informative documentary that played on the communal screen. Before I knew it, we had arrived at the Dytyatky checkpoint on the border of the 30-kilometer Exclusion Zone. Our guide Misha was waiting for us at the entrance. Before entering, we had to hand over our passports for inspection to the military.
On the way to the town of Chernobyl, we passed through the small abandoned village of Cherevach and through the largest village of the Chernobyl area – Zalissya. This was our first taste of the Exclusion Zone. We were given some time to explore these two areas on our own. I did not know what to expect. I felt weird. These were ordinary people’s houses. Abandoned. Furniture, toys, paperwork. All left behind. Someone’s tragedy was now a tourist attraction. My attraction. Kind of twisted if you think of it that way.
I walked through a few houses, before the guide walked us around a convenience store, hospital, and later a school.
Devastatingly fascinating. Not quite sure how else to describe the first glance.
In Chernobyl town, we visited the Wormwood Star memorial, which was unfortunately covered in snow. Behind it, a tribute to the villages that were evacuated after the disaster.
Nearby, St. Ilya Church – the only operating church inside of the Exclusion Zone.
Following lunch at the Chernobyl canteen, we entered the 10-kilometer Exclusion Zone by passing the Leliv checkpoint.
On the way to the power plant, we made a side trip to Duga (Russian Woodpecker), a former military radar, which was part of the Soviet ABM early-warning system.
The next stop was a kindergarten in the buried village of Kopachi. Here, we learned more about radioactive contamination and tested out the Geiger counters. Radiation levels were much higher near the ground and trees.
And, obviously, the radiation levels were much higher near reactor number four. We drove up as close as possible to reactor number. In November 2016, the construction of the New Safe Confinement intended to contain the remains of reactor number four was completed.
On the way to Pripyat, we stopped near the Red Forest – wooded region inside the 10-kilometer Exclusion Zone that turned red from radiation.
Sightseeing Pripyat town was the highlight of the tour.
The residents of Pripyat were asked to take only what was required for two or three days. The government wanted to contain the radioactive contamination. Following evacuation, valuable items such as cars and appliances were destroyed to prevent looting. However, we learned that a considerable amount of former residents’ belongings were stolen throughout the years that followed the disaster. Nature took its course on what was left behind. Buildings have decayed. Roads and plazas have been reclaimed by the elements. The famous amusement park stands rusting away.
The amusement park was set to open in May of 1986. On April 26, 1986, the amusement park was opened for the first and last time.
What I saw and experienced was simply indescribable. I will let the pictures tell the story.
Exiting the Exclusion Zone requires two full body scans – one at each of the two checkpoints. The scans are mandatory and determine if your radiation dose is within acceptable limits.
Safety
Radiation levels have dropped enough in recent years to allow tourists and former residents to make brief visits.
Solo East Travel provided us with the following radiation background:
• Kiev – 0.14 micro Sieverts per hour
• Chernobyl – 0.12 micro Sieverts per hour
• Prypiat – from 0.25 to 1.50 micro Sieverts per hour
• Airplane (At Cruising Altitude) – up to 8.0 micro Sieverts per hour
Doses of radiation:
• Eating One Banana – 0.01 micro Sieverts
• A Day Trip to Chernobyl with Solo East Travel – 2.2 micro Sieverts
• Dental X-Ray – 5.0 micro Sieverts
• Airplane Flight from Kiev, Ukraine to Toronto, Canada – 22 micro Sieverts
• Chest CT Scan – 7,000 micro Sieverts
• Fatal Dose – 8,000,000 micro Sieverts
To be clear, a day trip to the Exclusion Zone will not kill you. You will be exposed to more radiation on your flight to Kiev, than you will be during the tour.
Rules
Wear clothes and shoes that properly cover the body. Although unnecessary, I threw away everything that I wore on my tour of the Exclusion Zone. Everything. From my shoes to my bra, I tossed everything into the garbage. This was not necessary or even advised, but being paranoid, I packed clothes and shoes that I knew I would be throwing away.
It is prohibited to: eat, drink, or smoke in the open air; touch any structures or vegetation; sit or place any belongings on the ground; and carry any items outside of the Exclusion Zone. The list goes on to more obvious restrictions.
If Chernobyl is not on your bucket list, add it. Aside from North Korea, Chernobyl is one of the most devastatingly fascinating places I have visited.
