Destination: Cabo Verde
Getting to Praia from Chicago is easy—the most direct route is via Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal. However, getting to Praia for relatively cheap takes some creativity. I played around with the routes, and ultimately saved some money by making two separate flight reservations: 1. Chicago to Lisbon via Brussels on United Airlines and Brussels Airlines and Lisbon to Chicago via Munich on Lufthansa, and 2. Lisbon to Praia round-trip on TAP Airlines Portugal.
Layover 1
Lisbon is an excellent city for a layover. The city is well-connected by the Lisbon Metro, and by trams, buses, and trains. Rideshare services, like Uber, are also available. And, of course, so are taxis. Note: In each instance, I found that taxis were actually cheaper than Uber. From the airport, the metro quickly gets you to the heart of the city.
On the way to Praia, I had an 8-hour layover in Portugal’s capital city. I arrived at Lisbon Airport a few minutes after noon on Friday, February 15, 2019, and immediately made my way to the Praca do Comercio—situated near the Tagus River, it is commonly referred to as the grandest of Lisbon’s plazas. Given the plaza’s location (at the edge of the city), I figured I would start there and make my way into the city. I had no plan; I just wanted to see the city.
I spent my 8-hour layover aimlessly wandering around Lisbon’s historic center. Along the way, I tried various Portuguese delicacies like pasteis de nata (custard tarts) and pasteis de bacalhau (salted cod fritters).
My favorite view of the city was from the observation deck at the top of the Santa Justa Lift.
After covering the nearby attractions on foot, I returned to the Praca do Comercio and paid €20 EUR for a Hills Tramcar Tour—a tour through Lisbon’s traditional neighborhoods.
This tour is offered by Yellow Bus Tours, so tickets are valid for 24 hours after purchase and you can hop on and off at any stop along the route. Also, something I wish I knew: tickets include free access to Carris public trams, the Santa Justa Lift and traditional funiculars, and the Aerobus, along with discounts on tickets to monuments, museums, and leisure activities—so, I should have purchased this ticket before paying for the Santa Justa Lift. Oh well.
After completing the circuit, I returned to the airport for my night flight to Praia, Cabo Verde [see post: An Unexpected Adventure in Cabo Verde].
Layover 2
On the way back, I had a little less than 36 hours in Lisbon. Given my arrival and departures times, I booked a two-night stay at the Travellers House hostel in a single private room with a shared bathroom, located on Rua Augusta—pedestrian-only street in one of the busiest areas of Lisbon.
From the airport, I rushed to the hostel to drop off my backpack and meet two Portuguese brothers for dinner. Ever since I met these two gentlemen in Bolivia almost two years ago, I promised myself that I could not visit Lisbon without seeing them again. After dinner, they took me on a quick walking tour of their city at night—definitely the highlight of my trip.
I had the following day all to myself. From what I read, Sintra was perfect for a day trip. Located in the foothills of Portugal’s Sintra Mountains, the town is home to extravagant palaces and ancient castle ruins.
Getting to Sintra from Lisbon is easy—direct rail services run from Rossio Station to Sintra Station. From Sintra Station, if you are not up for a demanding uphill hike or for hiring an expensive taxi, hop on bus 434 (Pena Palace Circuit). The 434 bus service is operated by Scotturb, and the route is primarily designed for tourists. The route connects Sintra Station to Palacio Nacional da Pena (Pena Palace) and Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle), and passes through the historic town center.
If you decide to do the same, keep in mind that Sintra is a very popular tourist destination. Based on my own experience, I would have never guessed that Scotturb and the 434 bus service actually have terrible online reviews. Most complaints are related to the buses being crowded and having no available seats. Well, what do you expect when you travel to major tourist attractions on a budget? If that is your concern, pay for a taxi. Otherwise, do not let these reviews stop you from taking the bus.
You can purchase tickets from the bus driver. At the time of travel, a single bus ticket cost €3.90 EUR, while the entire loop as a hop-on hop-off ticket cost €6.90 EUR. Note: The hop-on hop-off ticket only allows you to go around the loop once.
The loop: Sintra Station > Sintra Town Center > Moorish Castle > Pena Palace > Sintra Station
Sintra Town Center – Historical center of Sintra.
Moorish Castle – Ancient fortress above the town of Sintra.
Pena Palace – Romanticist castle in the Sintra Mountains.
After returning to Lisbon, I visited Belem Tower and wandered around Lisbon’s Baixa and Chiado neighborhoods some more before heading back to the hostel and leaving for my early morning flight back to Chicago via Munich.
I must say, I definitely cannot wait to go back! Lisbon is such a charming city with so much character—it definitely made my “Top 5 European Cities” list, and I only spent a handful of hours there! But, when you know, you know. Right?
