From Chicago, Paraguay has always been an expensive destination – the consistently high airfare and visa costs never made the country a feasible option for a quick standalone destination. Which is okay, because I never thought of Paraguay as a “destination”, but rather an addition to an already existing itinerary. And what better destination than Iguazu / Iguacu Falls [see post: Waterfalls Galore: Iguazu / Iguacu Falls]? Located on the other side of the Parana River, Paraguay is just a short drive away from both Puerto Iguazu, Argentina and Foz do Iguacu, Brazil.
After spending a day exploring the Argentinian side of the falls and leaving Puerto Iguazu, I took a taxi across the border and spent the following two nights in Foz do Iguacu. Aside from the falls, there is not much to do in either of these border towns. My original plan was to spend the following day on the other side of the river, across the Friendship Bridge in Ciudad del Este – the gateway to Paraguay from the tri-border area.
The Friendship Bridge connects Foz do Iguacu and Ciudad del Este. I have read many conflicting reports and blogs regarding this particular border crossing. Per my research, public buses will not stop at the border since locals do not get stamped out or in coming from Brazil. Most reports advise getting out before the border to properly get stamped out and in, and to not end up “illegally” crossing into Paraguay. Makes sense. I also read that authorities will not stamp you in if you have not properly exited Brazil. Although many travelers have crossed the border without getting stamped in or out of either country (and to avoid obtaining a visa), I found several reports of others being detained and forced to pay bribes for illegally crossing into both countries. I did not want to risk illegally entering any country, so I decided against taking a public bus.
At the end of the day, it is your responsibility to have the correct documents to complete the immigration processes. Unlike other nationalities, Americans need a visa to enter Paraguay. United States citizens can obtain a multiple entry tourist visa (valid for up to ten years for a maximum of three months at a time) for $160 USD by either applying in person at the Consulate General of Paraguay or by mail. United States passport holders can also obtain a visa on arrival in Paraguay. However, this option is only available at Silvio Pettirossi International Airport in Asuncion for $150 USD cash. Dual citizens should note the rule of thumb: you should always enter and exit a country on the same passport.
Finding a day tour to Paraguay from Foz do Iguacu seemed impossible. I never received any responses to my inquiries for any of the tours that I did find advertised on the Internet. So, I decided to wait until I arrived in Foz do Iguacu and had the hostel organize a transfer for me with a stop at the border. From Foz do Iguacu, the Friendship Bridge is located just ten minutes away. Crossing the bridge into Paraguay was quite easy – I was stamped out of Brazil and in to Paraguay in a matter of minutes.
Famous for its shops and malls, everything and anything is for sale in Ciudad del Este. Calling it a “smuggler’s paradise”, fellow travelers discouraged me from visiting this once dangerous city. The rainy day further pushed me to reconsider.
Ultimately, I opted out of visiting Ciudad del Este and instead took a taxi to the Itaipu Dam – the world’s largest generator of renewable clean energy and one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.
The hydroelectric dam is located on the border between Brazil and Paraguay on the Parana River. The Itaipu Dam was a joint effort between Brazil and Paraguay and can be visited from both countries. You do not need to be part of an organized tour to visit the dam. Visiting the dam from the Paraguayan side is free. You do not need a reservation. Basically, you just show up and present your passport, watch a short documentary, and then hop into a bus for a guided tour of the grounds.
The bus makes one stop at a viewing platform.
Unfortunately, the tour was in Spanish, so I did not understand the narrative.
After the tour concluded, I walked to the parking lot to meet the taxi driver that had waited to take me back across the Friendship Bridge to Foz do Iguacu later that morning.
