I was saving Panama City as a stopover for an eventual trip to Asuncion. You know, to kill two birds with one stone – Panama and Paraguay in one shot. I had just returned from Georgia a few days ago [see post: Two Days in Georgia], and I needed a quick escape. Unfortunately, Panama was my cheapest option. Instead of making Panama City the destination, I should have stuck to my original plan.
I arrived at Tocumen International Airport in Panama City late at night on Thursday, September 8, 2016. Exhausted, I hopped into a taxi and headed straight to my hotel. I had booked three nights at the Hotel Casa Panama located in the old part of the city. Aside from a good location, the hotel offered a relatively cheap stay. Situated below a nightclub, free breakfast was included in exchange for keeping you up all night. Kidding. Well, no. Not really.
Day 1
I only had two days in Panama – which meant that one of those days had to include visiting the Panama Canal. In case you have been living under a rock, the Panama Canal is a man-made waterway that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific.
Prior to arriving in Panama, I booked the “Panama City and Canal Tour” through Barefoot Panama based on the company’s reviews and the tour’s price. I was picked up from my hotel at 8:00 in the morning and joined the rest of the group. The tour began with a stop at Cerro Ancon (also known as Ancon Hill) to get a bird’s-eye view of Panama City.
From here, we drove down to the Canal Zone before heading off to the Miraflores Locks to watch the ships transit. Well, at least that was the plan. Upon arriving, we sat around on the viewing platforms for hours waiting for a ship to transit. Between 13,000 and 14,000 ships use the Panama Canal each year – not one ship passed through that morning. Not even one! It was rather disappointing not being able to witness the lock system at work.
After wasting many hours waiting, we headed over the Bridge of the Americas for another view of the city and canal.
To make up for the disappointment, the guide took us to the Punta Culebra Nature Center for an opportunity to see sloths, iguanas, birds, and marine life.
After lunch, we completed a quick walking tour of old town (Casco Viejo) before the tour concluded.
Day 2
Want to spend a lot of money on a tourist trap? A day tour to the Embera village will ensure you return to Panama City more disappointed than when you had left.
I wanted to do something in Panama other than wander around another metropolitan city. Barefoot Panama offered an “unforgettable once-in-a-lifetime experience” to explore a native Embera village in the Panamanian rainforest. Through my travels, I have learned that if tour companies operate tours to visit a country’s indigenous groups, the experience will be anything but authentic. Once again, this thought held true. The Embera put on a great show, but, that is all that it was – a show.
My day started around 8:00 in the morning. After breakfast, I was picked up from the hotel and taken to a boat ramp on the shore of Lake Alajuela about an hour or so away from Panama City. I was the only one on the “group” day tour. Two Embera men met my guide and me at the boat ramp.
We hopped into their “dugout” canoe and headed across the lake, and then upriver for about 45 minutes to the Embera village.
I was taken around the village. Although some tour operators claim authenticity, I was not buying it. I was told that tourism provides an incentive for the Embera to maintain their traditions. Understandable, but, I am under the impression that the Embera do not actually live in the village that I had visited. I believe the “villagers” live nearby and only travel to the staged village when expecting tourists.
There was no interaction between the villagers and me. They lounged around scrolling on their cell phones, waiting for me to leave. After lunch, I was moved to a bigger hut lined with seating.
At this point, I was ready to leave. Being the only tourist there, I felt so uncomfortable watching the Embera put on a performance for me. I felt bad for them. They looked absolutely miserable having to dance for me.
I received what was offered – an unforgettable experience. The highlight was arriving back in Panama City later that evening, and returning home the next morning. If you are looking to do something outside of Panama City, eliminate this experience from your options. It was truly a waste of time and money.
