There are certain life-changing events that will encourage and push you to try new things. This was mine.
Cartagena. My first ever hostel experience. I think it is safe to assume that most people have a negative preconceived notion regarding hostels. My travels to date have been rather safe. By safe, I mean, I knew what I was getting myself into when I stayed at a hotel or took an organized tour, since the experience is outlined for you before you even get to your destination.
Having never stayed at a hostel, I did not quite know where to begin or what to expect. My goal was to meet people. I wanted to be social. I wanted to be uncomfortable. My search started on www.hostels.com and www.hostelworld.com. When reading the reviews, I focused on location and the inclusion of common areas. I booked a one-night stay at the El Viajero Cartagena Hostel inside of the walled Old Town. For less than $20 USD, I booked an 8 Bed Mixed Dorm with a bathroom ensuite. Female, double, and private rooms are available, if you are more comfortable with those arrangements. The 10 and 12 Bed Mixed Dorms seemed a bit overwhelming for a first-timer. When booking a hostel, make sure that you understand what is included. This hostel includes breakfast, air conditioning (especially important when traveling to a city like Cartagena), bed linen, lockers, free computer usage with internet access, Wi-Fi, bike rental, a fully equipped kitchen, and bilingual staff. I was most focused on bed linen, lockers, and free Wi-Fi. I travel light, so carrying around my own bed linen does not appeal to me. Also, I wanted to have a place to lock up my stuff at night and while roaming around the city. This hostel also offered extras that others in the area did not – a bar, salsa lessons, DJs, live music, and a great variety of activities.
My adventure began at Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport on the evening of Wednesday, April 15, 2015. I slept the entire flight and arrived in Bogota, Colombia early the next morning. My flight to Cartagena was not for another few hours, so that gave me enough time to get another nap in. After all, I needed to be well rested since my day would begin the second that I landed in Cartagena.
For $5 USD, I took a taxi from Rafael Nunez International Airport to the entrance of the Walled City of Cartagena. Cobblestone streets. Colorful colonial buildings. Named after Cartagena, Spain, the Spanish influence throughout the city is strong. Sharp hues of yellow and orange surrounded me, I did not know which way to look. The sun peeked through the dark clouds into the narrow streets, giving the old historic buildings a special glow. Vibrant flowers dangled over bold balconies. Movement from each direction. With a map in my hand, I ventured to find the hostel.
The location was perfect. I felt a bit nervous standing in front of those steps, watching people walk in and out. I pulled the handle, all eyes on me. The center of the common area, the kitchen on the left, couches and computers to my right, all filled with young backpackers. Past the crowds of people sitting outside of the rooms, past the bar, at the end of the hostel, was my room. I was given the top bunk. First thought: I hope I do not fall off the bed at night. I made my bed, locked up my backpack, and headed out to find the Plaza Fernandez de Madrid.
Prior to arriving in Colombia, I booked a street food and Getsemani tour through Cartagena Connections for $30 USD. The tour focused more on food and culture and less on history. If you have not yet caught on, history is not my cup of tea. Food and culture on the other hand, are what I travel for. The tour started at Plaza Fernandez de Madrid, Statue of Jose Fernandez where I met native and local Juan. For the next two hours and fifteen minutes, I sampled everything from exotic tropical fruits, pork chicharrones, to the perfect pairing of bocadillo and queso costeno.
With a satisfied appetite, I took the long way back to the hostel. As the evening progressed, I decided to venture to Plaza Santo Domingo. Surrounded by restaurants, the plaza sits in the center of life inside of the Walled City. Come nightfall, the heat settled and I felt a refreshing breeze while I sat outside and ate a plate full of lobster, octopus, calamari, and shrimp. For the first time in months, I finally started to feel at peace.
Colombian cuisine includes a lot of meat, not preferential for vegetarians or picky eaters. Coastal areas, such as Cartagena, offer a great variety of fish and seafood. Fresh fruit is abundant, with many varieties you have probably never heard of before.
On my way back to the hostel, I decided to enter a bar to grab a drink. I must have missed the letters KGB planted on the outside. Putin. Vladimir Putin was staring at me from every direction. Bartenders dressed in Soviet uniform. It was quite the experience. It was time that I left Russia and returned to the city that stole my interest. I finally made it back to the hostel to learn that my night was only beginning. The staff advised me that the hostel guests were all going out for the night. I joined – and the rest is history.
I had an 8:30 in the morning tour scheduled for that morning. And, let me tell you, 8:30 came pretty fast. Rather than my day starting, my day continued from the night before. I checked out of the hostel and hopped in the bus. My guided sightseeing tour led me through Cartagena’s famous past and took me into the present. I visited the famous clock tower (Torre del Reloj), Plaza de la Aduana, the Cathedral of Cartagena, and Plaza de Bolivar. Following, I hiked my way up to visit Castillo San Felipe (San Felipe Castle) located on the Hill of San Lazaro. The views of Cartagena and the sea from atop the hill were truly breathtaking.
Instead of heading back to the hostel, my tour guide dropped me off at a local restaurant near the beach. I tried Sancocho for the first time, and was rather pleased. The owner of the restaurant let me leave my backpack while I explored the new part of the city. I walked down the beach and watched the sky grow darker. It was about time that I left for the airport. Back to the restaurant I went, grabbed my backpack, and hopped in a taxi.
My flight to Bogota was later that night. I arrived at El Dorado International Airport seconds after midnight and transferred to the Hotel Platinum Suite. Hours later, a new day was upon me. My hotel included breakfast, which was served on the top level of the hotel. Delicious.
I went downstairs to meet my tour guide for the day. I arranged an eight-hour guided sightseeing tour of Bogota. The tour began in La Candelaria, the historic neighborhood of Bogota, which reminded me a bit of Cartagena – colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, bold balconies, vibrant colors. I ventured between the historical buildings around Plaza de Bolivar. I saw La Catedral Primera (Prime Cathedral), the Presidential Palace, and the Capitolio Nacional (National Capitol). My tour continued with a Colombian lunch at a local restaurant where I scarfed down a delicious bowl of Colombian Ajiaco. After lunch, my tour headed to the north end of Bogota, where I saw the International Center, the financial district of Bogota, and Parque 93. Since my day was only half over, I asked the guide to leave me there. I spent the rest of the day exploring on my own until the sky fell dark again. Unfortunately, I landed in Bogota on the eve of elections – where the city became a dry country and shut down.
Safety in Bogota has dramatically improved over the past few years. Cartagena is safe. Every large city has parts one should not wander around solo in the middle of the night. Colombia is beautiful. Mojitos are abundant and the best that you will probably have. Culture is vibrant. Cuisine is delicious. Go see and experience it for yourself!
